Golden morning hours in Milford Sound

No matter how beautiful Milford Sound is during the day, it is horribly chilly in the early morning hours after a starry, cloudless night in autumn. In fact it must have been very close to zero degrees Celsius, which I concluded from the frost that was all over my car on the out and inside and the sudden cold rush that crawled up my body as soon as I got out of my cozy sleeping bag. Time to get a warm shower and team. It must have been 6.30 when I got up trying to catch the golden morning to take some nice pictures.

And boy, I was lucky that day to have surely perfect conditions. The sky was cloudless and perfectly blue while a thick cushion of mist hovered above the fields and the lakes, that you encounter, when you drive along the Milford Valley.

Milford Sound on a winter morning

Smoke on the Water: The whole lake seemed to be ethereal ... or burning...

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Despite a fairly decent hangover, I forced myself out of the bed at 7am. The next two days are gonna be great, as I will have a wonderful road trip with great weather and even better things to see. Therefore I didn’t want to waste any second in bed. It was time to hit the road. Destination: Unknown.

Phil from Phil’s Car Rental is a really nice guy and he got me a wonderful old 330.000km Toyota with that self-painted military green coat, that you simply cannot resist. In my opinion the absolute right car for such a trip.

My awesome ride

Pimp my ride: 330.000km, manual steering wheel based transmission but still going. Slow, old rusty... and in front of you. This car was the best ever. Seriously.

From Queenstown to Kingston

I had a rough idea, to make Te Anau my first waypoint. I guess the reason is because it is a quite well known place, lies at a supposedly wonderful lake and is the gate into my beloved Fiordland, the most magical place in New Zealand. Time to get back where I spent a whole month when I was still aboard the Rose Maree.
To get there you have to make your way over some very lonesome roads, which is more than OK, since I found two very mighty escorts in the car: Led Zeppelin and Pink Floyd, who were pumping the shit out of that vans Mono-Surround Sound System. Time to rock the road.

Road to Adventure

The road to adventure: This is what the South Island looks like. Forsaken roads stretching to the horizon and beyond. The are asking for being traveled.

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So there I was. Aware that this holiday won’t yield any more hiking for me, I sat in the living room of Hollys Backpacker in Wanaka and was trying to figure out how to cope with this unexpected twist in vacation planning.
What can I do in this situation? I have 4 days to go, till I go back to Auckland and into the real life. I am certainly not wasting a single minute!
Fortunately there is a certain protection in my head, that gives me always the only right answer there is, when you are clueless with plenty of time and possibilities at hand: ROADTRIP!!!

The decision to flee came sudden. Without much thinking I realized that I had to get out of Wanaka and into a more busy place like Queenstown, because I have to hire a car from somewhere and Wanaka didn’t really offer anything interesting. The plan was easy: Go to Queenstown, grab a car and start driving. Where to? The road will tell!

The hardest bit really was to get out of Wanaka. It was already 11am when I got a my pack ready and able to check out. The changes that someone is picking up a hitchhiker at that time are quite minute to be frank. So after one hour of failing to get a ride (the whole South Island trip was not the best when it came to hitchhiking, now that I think about it), I decided to stop trying and buying a bus ticket instead. The price was reasonable and it doesn’t take too long anyway.
Besides, I won two hours of time that I used to enjoy a last sip of the really good Wanaka Beerworks brew, that is served in some places around the town. So, while I was waiting for the bus to arrive, I enjoyed the warm autumn sun and fooling around with my camera and this odd dog, that came along, who had to face my wide angle lens.

Wide Angles and Dogs are fun

I guess this is the real purpose for wide angle lenses: To make funny pictures of animals. I feel a little bit bad letting that poor dog look so stupid.

When the bus arrived, I remembered that another guy from the hostel, Matthias was taking that bus back to Queenstown as well. Which was good, cause it made the ride much more enjoyable, as he was a quite funny guy.

The intercity bus routes have the habit of stopping now and then for a little break. Usually they do so somewhere in the middle of nowhere, where nothing exists, apart from a small shop where you can buy all sorts of things and in this case lot’s of fresh vegetables and fruits. It was also an orchard. I took that opportunity to get some shots from the scenery, which seemed so golden under that late afternoon sun.

Apple Farm

We mad a little break at this apple orchard. The harvesting season was already over. Thos trees won't bear any fruits anymore till next year.

Life vs. Death

Instead they will show us the perishability of life in the fairest colors

Strange trees

The South Island has a really big range of strange trees. They seem so fragile with their odd arrangement of leaves and branches. And yet, they withstand the sometime harsh weather down here better than anything else.

We arrived in Queenstown shortly before darkness, but I had three crucial things to do tonight: Find a car, find a place to sleep and get that amazing Steak + Beer offer at the local brewpub for 18 Dollars. Finding a rental car at 4.45pm is probably one of the hardest things to do, as your biggest enemy is not the totally ridiculous overpricing of rental cars but the time before closing. I have to find a car tonight, because I didn’t want to waste any second on the next day seeking for one. So I rushed into a few places , just to realize that no one had a proper camper van to offer, for reasonable pricing of course.

Fruit market bus stop

A vast variety of fruits was offered at that place where we had our break. I should have gotten some for my upcoming roadtrip, but I was already sick of carrying those stupid fruits around with me, just by looking at them.

So, I stopped searching and went for a hostel hunt instead. My first destination was the “Last Resort” of course, but I totally forgot about their two nights minimum rule, so I got rejected. Instead I went for a place called Deco Backpackers, which was really just around the corner and besides, I didn’t care too much as it was just for one night. The place seemed quite alright and I might go there again if nothing else were available, but the owner seemed somehow unfriendly, there you go. At least, Internet was for free.

Man, I need a freaking car, what shall I do?! So I started to consult the Internet where I found a really interesting web page called “Phil’s car rental” with rather interesting offers. The prices were the lowest I’ve ever seen for car hiring and the conditions more than fair. Besides, his preferred “office times” were from 5pm to 9pm. That was exactly what I was looking for. Perfect. From there on things went smooth again. I gave him a call and he was more than happy to give me a camper van for two days. Unlimited kilometers, 40 Dollars a day, bring it back with fuel in it, no other strings attached. Phil, you made my day! Tomorrow morning 8am I’ll pick it up.

Relieved by the fact, that I finally hat a little bit of luck, I went for the Steak and Beer offer at the “Monteiths” Brew Pub in Queenstown.
It was really a decent piece of meat and together with a good drop of Monteiths Black, a quite tasty experience. But I had no intentions to stay here forever. Mathias and I said that we might meet at the “Dux de Lux” Brewery Pub for a couple of sips tonight, which was luckily enough next to the Monteiths pub.

He was already awaiting me and quite happy that I finally showed up. Well, what shall I say, this was going to be a loooong night. A good one indeed. Let’s hope I won’t oversleep tomorrow morning. Cheers!

Bungee jumping is awesome. Yes it really is. I was lucky enough to experience this in 2005 on the Frequency Festival when I was jumping off a tower into a music listening crowd of 40.000. The two very intense things about Bungee are the moment when you overcome your fear and leave the platform and the aftermath when your body has to deal with that overproduced amounts of adrenalin, and it starts to sinking it what you just have done. The process of bouncing up and down while hanging on a rope made out of some kind of rubber is rather unspectacular compared to the moments before and after.

Plattform with Jumper

Bungee jumper at Nevis Bluff. One of the highest jumps in the world

Well, 2005 has been 6 years ago and it would have been overdue to renew this experience, although I had no intentions at all to participate in bungee jumping down in Queenstown, even when this place is famous for bungee. I think it was even invented down here.
But Anki and Sarah were planning to jump today so I decided to come with them. Originally, I just wanted to come and take pictures of the whole event, but since you have to pay a ridiculous amount of money to come as a spectator, I decided to jump, too. Therefore I got best of both worlds. I was able to take pictures and I even got a jump. Well, and an empty wallet, cause it is really overpriced in my opinion. Whatever, I am young and why not taking this opportunity. Besides, you don’t really want to look like a chicken, when the girls are doing a jump and you aren’t?

And what a jump indeed. The Nevis Bluff Bungee Jump is one of the highest jumps in the world with a falling distance over 134 meters. That is quite impressive, I’d say.
The conditions were more than perfect. It was a warm and sunny autumn day, no clouds at all. Perfect. So let’s stop the talking and do the walking. Pictures! Continue reading »

Alright, it is my first whole day in Queenstown. Time to get things going. Since my plans are to hike as much as possible down here, it is time to do some warming up, some practice for the harder parts. Doing a day trip up Ben Lomond should be the right kind of exercise to get me prepared for multi day hiking. Besides, I can adjust my gear, that is already around whopping 25kg overall weight. My camera gear alone is over 4kg. Jeez.

Anyway, that’s the plan for today: Going up to Ben Lomond Summit. According to this sign it is a 8 hours return trip. A solid day trip, yet it is expected to be a quite exhausting one, cause you are basically going uphill all the time. Well and downhill on your way back, which is usually even more annoying.

Ben Lomond chart

Much to do around here: Ben Lomond is a popular place for all types of recreation. Besides mountain biking, luge riding and gondola riding it offers some smaller tracks, the summit walk and is even a starting point for multi day hikes.

 

Of course it was a simple day trip. No need to carry much gear. No need to carry much food or anything else. But still, I took everything with me I’ve got, just to get me used to it again. It has been a while since I’ve been backpacking and on the road. Don’t forget, that nearly one year has passed since I’ve settled in Auckland. It felt quite good to be out there again. I can say, I missed this very much indeed. So freedom, here I come, even if it’s just for a short period.

Ben Lomond Summit Track

Looks like a good start: Shortly after leaving Queenstown, you enter the jungle and follow a nice stream upwards. A good motivator to get you adjusted to your circumstances.

 

There is a saying down here: “If you don’t like the weather in New Zealand, wait for 15 minutes”. This was never more true than on this day. I had it all. Pretty much any imaginable weather pattern occurred to me.
At the beginning I had an overcast sky and dull colors all around me. As soon as I got into the forest, the sun started to come out and cast its rays through the tightly arranged tree lines. It reminded me a little bit of a fantasy movie forest with all those fairies and magic swords. Unfortunately there was no princess on my way, that needed someone to rescue her. Continue reading »

Last Resort Hostel

I realized that I’ve never written about the hostels I stayed with, while traveling, although I think that it might be worthwhile to share those experiences as well.

So let’s start with my first hostel in Queenstown: “The last Resort”

It is a rather small hostel and an odd one indeed.
Apparently it used to be a brothel before it got converted for its current use.
The place itself is quite cosy. Small rooms only with max 4-5 beds. The staff was nice and you get some free amenities as well.

Most importantly Internet is free and fairly fast.
Coffee and tea are freely available, which is quite the standard, but free breakfast, how they are offering it is not.
Furthermore, they have a decent DVD library and a very nice multimedia system in the living room for rainy days.

Another oddity of this place is the two nights minimum rule. Since it is so small, they can’t afford to host you for just one night, because their laundry facilities are rather basic. That’s why they came up with this unusual solution to this problem. So don’t get disappointed when they reject you, because you are only for one night in Queenstown. Oh yes, and you can only stay for 7 days in a row. Fuck knows why.

The rates are 30 dollars/night, which is the upper range, but when you deduct the additional offers you will find it a considerable deal. Besides, BBH members get 4 dollars off.

Summary: Nice place to stay for a couple of days, if you are happy to accept the house rules. Not a party hostel. I’d go there again.

Alright alright, I know it is kinda embarrassing that I haven’t written about my holidays on the South Island anymore, although this was such a big thing I really wanted to do. But what should I say? Some things might get in my way and without photos uploaded there is not much sense writing a new blog post.

Still, I am trying to get better and more recent with new posts, hopefully I succeed. Anyway, let’s recapture those awesome days down there. And of course we start at the beginning, at day one and the arrival in Queenstown.

It was a nice sunny day when my plane landed at Queenstown Airport. Not necessarily warm, but since sunshine became a rare thing in Auckland, it was something very highly appreciated. Plus, the flight was very relaxed. I spent the two hours talking to an old man from Christchurch and he seemed to knew everything about hiking in the Southern Alps, which was a good thing, at least that was my main intention why I got down here: Instead of rushing through the whole southern part of the South Island, I’d rather explore just a minute part of it in a very intense manner, namely by foot. Hiking in the Southern Alps of New Zealand, that’s exactly what I wanted.

Basically I was well prepared, but since my new shoes and sleeping bag didn’t arrive right in time, I had to get some replacement. OK, I’ve bought a nice sleeping bag, simple as. But when it comes to shoes, I can’t simply rush into a store spending 700 NZD on a new pair of shoes. So I did the only thing that made sense to me: I hired them. Yes, you can hire shoes at R&R Sports in Auckland for just 20 Dollars a week. How great is that? Let’s hope they will do the trick.

Anyway, first day ever in Queenstown. First day on the South Island since I’ve left the Rose Maree for nearly one year ago. Incredible, how could time pass by so quickly? So what to do in this place? First of all, I had to explore the town a little bit, just to know where I am and besides: Queenstown is one of the bigger cities down there. It got at least 30.000 people…

Queenstown Central

Shotover Street: This is pretty much town center down here and home of many many touristy attractions... well or at least the booking offices

 

However, Queenstown is the most famous place in NZ for action holidays like Skydiving, Bungee Jumping, Mountain-biking, etc etc. This makes it a popular magnet for lots of backpackers and not necessarily always the good types among themselves. What I want to say is, it gets quite touristy at times.
But honestly who could resist such a stunning view on Lake Wakatipu , the big lake at which shore Queenstown resides?

Queenstown Wharf

Lake Wakatipu: Formed by grinding glaciers over the eons of time one can find this endless seeming lake.

So why not taking a little stroll along the shore? Queenstown City doesn’t seem to exiting after all at this stage. Not with such stunning mountain views. One thing I realized was, that I was not the only one hooked into this certain magic such a place contains. So I found lots of sea gazing people all over the place. Continue reading »

Ben Lomond

It took me nearly 4 hourse to get up that mountain called Ben Lomond thast is very close to Queenstown.
After I fought my way through harsh couantry, steep slopes and icy cold rain and snow, I arrived at the top just to see: Nothing.

After it stopped snowing a wall of fog appeared out of the nothing and covered eveything in a dense hazy pillow. Still I was happy to be up there, since it was worth the struggle.

Safe arrival in Queenstown: After an easy going 2 hours flight that I spent chatting away with an 78 year old hiker from New Zealand who spent the war times in Berlin, I arrived on Queenstown Airport.
The first impression was already stunning, the southern Alps seem promising indeed. The first thing I did after I got my luggage was going on a walk from the Airport to Frankton, the closest settlement nearby. Although I didn’t mind a small stroll, this happened out of sheer necessity, since I there was no public transport bus coming and I wasn’t willing to pay for a cab. So I spent my time walking and peeping at the nearby lake.

The next couple of days I will spend here exploring Queenstown and its surroundings just to see how it is. Tonight I will also meet up with Lara, Anki and Sarah who are in town as well. And why having dinner all alone while you can have the same with three wonderful ladies instead?

Well, let the vacation begin :-)

directions to Queenstown

6 Directions and every single one of them would make a remarkable destination. Unfortunately I will only see two of them this time: Queenstown and Wanaka

The merits of our globally connected world are more than obvious. Everything is available anytime and anywhere I want. While this is true for anything that can be converted into some digital information, there is still an considerable amount of real world problems when it comes to real world goods, such as shipping for instance.

My dad (whose it’s birthday today btw, so shout him a beer if you see him) was so nice to send me my sleeping bag and some hiking boots to New Zealand because I am planning to go hiking in the southern Alps around Queenstown for 2,5 weeks which is impossible without proper gear of course.

So we got the things running and the parcel was on its way to New Zealand. Send by DHL Express to make sure it will make its way down here early enough. Estimated transport time: approx. 8 days. As a comparison: Sending a random parcel for X-Mas will last for 2 months.

I was tracking my parcel everyday and in fact it arrived in NZ on Monday 11th of April. Everything seems to work as planned, thats how I like it. But from there on everything went wrong, as I figured out just a couple of minutes ago.

Today, on the 14th of April the status of my delivery hasn’t changed since Monday. “Parcel is waiting for clearance through customs”. Well, that seems kinda odd. Let’s give them a ring to find out whats going on. But who are you gonna call? Ghostbusters!

First I tried it directly at NZ Customs, but they couldn’t help me without any reference number. At least they have got the best music while holding the line. (Peter Gabriel – Sledgehammer)

Still motivated I called DHL New Zealand. Makes sense doesn’t it? When you send something from Germany to New Zealand and both countries have a DHL branch, you will ask them first, right? Well, not so in NZ. DHL New Zealand is not responsible for shippings via DHL Germany. In fact it’s New Zealand Postal Service, that is. Well then let’s call these guys. Fortunately customer service hotlines won’t cost a dime apart from nerves and time.

The Postal Service lady was very friendly and was a little bit more enlightening, since she could obtain my new NZ tracking number. And she knew that my parcel was held by Bio Security NZ, the local authority for everything related to possible threats to nature and environment. That’s nothing someone has to be concerned about, since you have to deal with these guys all the time while traveling and shipping stuff. But why haven’t they processed my parcel yet?

5 phone calls and 2 hours later I figured out why. They have a frigging’ backlog in their process queue. A backlog for gods sake! Is that really my problem? In this case it is, because they can’t process it till Monday and I will fly into Queenstown this very Saturday. Fuck.

At least I have certainty about the whereabouts of my delivery. Sorry dad for all the hassle, but I guess the haste was not worth its efforts. Fortunately I have Friday already off. I know a place that has hiking boots for hire, at least I can be sure they have been worn-in.

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